July 03, 2006 Paris
Given the unimpeachable luxury credentials of the French label (last season's red croc coat, priced at $145,000, was a traffic-stopper in more ways than one), Nichanian's vision for the new season looked surprisingly proletarianat least at first glance. On closer inspection, the details of touch and technique became apparent. Take the tweedy blouson that opened the show, for instance. It was actually constructed of intricately woven calfskin, as was a hooded top. That begs a question, though: Given Nichanian's perhaps admirable refusal to indulge in just-for-the-catwalk theatrics, might the subtleties of these clothes be better appreciated in a more intimate showroom setting?