For his latest show, Johan Lindeberg said he envisioned downtown Manhattan infiltrating the posh Hamptons. But it quickly became apparent that prep had punk licked. From the moment a monogrammed shirt and pinstriped blazer got the show off to a proudly patrician start, the gritty rockers were clearly going to be outnumbered.

Sure, the WASPy tasselled loafers came in white patent leather, and those gauzy layered T-shirts had a tinge of the Goth about them, but the cricket whites hinted at the fundamental inclinations of this collection. Let's not forget that Johan is minting it in the golf world. Is cricket next?

Sporting life aside, Lindeberg has been carving out a niche at retail as a kind of Helmut Lang manqué. This time around, there were hints of Lang's lean tailoring in the outer- and eveningwear. A white plastic coat and a satin-trimmed white tux evoked neither uptown nor downtown, but rather a bygone era of deluxe minimalism.