Lanvin
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, July 5, 2006
By Tim Blanks
The comfort factor of Alber Elbaz's womenswear for Lanvin has been such a huge asset to the label that it makes perfect sense that, along with his menswear lieutenant, Lucas Ossendrijver, he would carry over the same principle here. That's why everything was washed in Lanvin's latest collection for men. It meant things looked soft and worn, which fit with the general vintage feel of the clothes. The starting point was the ultimate male ensemblethe military uniformand that translated into little epauletted jackets and side-striped trousers. Suits had the compact smartness of a cadet's uniform, which gave the collection a skinny, boyish flair, also evident in a fitted, zippered blouson and a trench with an elasticized waist.A little drama was created by the fundamental oppositions within outfits: shiny vs. matte, fitted vs. loose, natural vs. synthetic. But the starkest contrast was in the accessories: Jetson-styled sunglasses and shoes in gaudy metallics. Ossendrijver said he thought of them as the male equivalent of jewelry. Potential retailers were enchanted.
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Adam Kimmel Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Chalayan Cloak Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Dior Homme Dirk Schönberger DKNY Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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Emporio Armani Etro -
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Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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Issey Miyake -
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J.Lindeberg Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kim Jones Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc by Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu -
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Neil Barrett Number (N)ine -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Roberto Cavalli -
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Thom Browne Trovata -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent







