The comfort factor of Alber Elbaz's womenswear for Lanvin has been such a huge asset to the label that it makes perfect sense that, along with his menswear lieutenant, Lucas Ossendrijver, he would carry over the same principle here. That's why everything was washed in Lanvin's latest collection for men. It meant things looked soft and worn, which fit with the general vintage feel of the clothes. The starting point was the ultimate male ensemble—the military uniform—and that translated into little epauletted jackets and side-striped trousers. Suits had the compact smartness of a cadet's uniform, which gave the collection a skinny, boyish flair, also evident in a fitted, zippered blouson and a trench with an elasticized waist.

A little drama was created by the fundamental oppositions within outfits: shiny vs. matte, fitted vs. loose, natural vs. synthetic. But the starkest contrast was in the accessories: Jetson-styled sunglasses and shoes in gaudy metallics. Ossendrijver said he thought of them as the male equivalent of jewelry. Potential retailers were enchanted.