What a difference a year makes. Luca Missoni's last summer collection was all sun-kissed Americana. This time around, he went in another direction entirely, invoking Alfred, Lord Douglas, the male minx who drove Oscar Wilde to his doom. Adding to the surprise was the news—underlined in fashion scholar Anna Piaggi's collection notes—that "Bosey," as Douglas was known, was keen on golf. This undoubtedly accounted for the odd tenor of this show. Pitched partway between blow-dried fop and Tiger Woods, its defining image was an ambiguous young man, pretty in pink from the top of his flat cap to the bottom of his (Missoni-print) golf bag.

Piaggi talked about "Sports Romantics," but the show was strongest when it concentrated on the first half of that equation, shifting the emphasis from effeteness to easygoing leisurewear. Particularly welcome were the deep-pleated, baggy Bermuda shorts, which were shown as half of a pinstriped suit, as well as in a graphically blocked plaid with matching shirt, and even dressed up for evening, with a Lurex-shot cardigan and bow tie. Elsewhere, though, indolence ruled, from the sockless black oxfords to the predominantly pastel color scheme to a catwalk that looked like a sun-faded mosaic composed of Missoni's signature chevrons.