Michael Kors loves a theme, and with his latest collection, he finally found a theme that loves him right back. Like the American TV audience, Kors has gone gaga for dance, taking his cues from the likes of Baryshnikov and Bob Fosse. Their effortless athleticism made a perfect complement to Kors's own inclinations toward the simple and sporty. It also provided his menswear a much-needed spark; these clothes were all about the kind of movement critical to the dancer's craft. Even the suits were light enough to be Gene Kelly–ready.

But the core of the collection was a kind of choreographer's combo: utility pants, white sneakers, roll-neck sweater, sleeves of another sweater knotted casually around waist. It was a physical, functional look that managed to be supremely stylish in its bare essentials. The same casual effect was duplicated in the cashmere hoodie under a white linen blazer or the layering of short over long sleeves. Kors's own particular pleasure was in the pleating in the pants: six months of research, he claimed, to yield a result that looked good on every age of man. The pleats were deep and doubled on both suit trousers and sporty slacks in black linen.