Takahiro Miyashita's affection for rock 'n' roll outlaws blossomed in a new collection whose starting point was a hybrid of Kurt Cobain and Johnny Cash. Given the turbulent lives of both men, there was a surprising tranquility to the presentation, perhaps reflective of the designer's aim to veer away from his usual dark side toward something more hopeful and romantic. He also wanted to show a broken-down version of the tailoring that has won him an ever-expanding cult following, so everything was washed into faded earth tones and a worn softness. They gave the clothes a frontier spirit that perfectly matched Cash's croak on the soundtrack.

The oversize silhouette was exaggerated by waistcoats stitched over jackets and coats in a trompe l'oeil effect. They hung at the back in two huge extended wings. Fabric treatments included flocking on denim and paint on washed leather, both intended to further wear away with use. The music of Nirvana was unexpectedly transcribed into crotchets and quavers to make a print for jacket linings. It was a typical N(N) detail, much like the pearl fringe that hung off waistcoat hems, the trailing macramé belts, or the rosaries with cross and skull. Fascinating stuff. There was only one hitch: The weight of the collection recognized spring-summer not a whit.