July 03, 2006 Paris
The passing parade of twins, brothers, and looky-likeys gave the audience the chance to compare and contrast smooth and rough versions of the same item: here, the jeans in white, there in indigo; here the shirt with the collar, there without; here the linen knit in a crewneck, there in a cardigan; and so on. Amid such a volume of clothes, the standouts were the outfits that best expressed Smith's sparky casualness: a blanket-stitched suede shirt-jacket paired with camo shorts; plaid pants with an army-green shirt in fine cotton; seersucker trousers with shirts in a sprigged-floral print.
It's perhaps worth noting that this collection was the last for creative director Hakan Rosenius, who is departing for Asprey after 23 years at Smith's side. It was a suitably subtle swan song for such an unflashily successful collaboration.