After last season's not wholly successful move onto the catwalk, Jeff, John, and Sam (Josiah's gone north) went back to the tableau vivant format that allows them to create and control a complex narrative for their collection. This one had to do with a French-Canadian couple called the Duboces, scuba-diving adventurers who found a lost Hemingway manuscript in a sunken ship, and… Well, the story continued on, and a Cuban band played, and margaritas were served, and all in all, it was a less-than-typical fashion presentation. Still, what it made clear was how much a Trovata collection needs the weight of narrative to give it heft.

Otherwise, the clothes were a fairly basic J.Crew proposition with a few winsome details: the red stitching on the buttons of a mini-trench, for example, or the signature printed lining in a white linen suit. The seafaring theme made itself felt in raw-hemmed cut-offs and striped tops (couple that theme with the faux family saga, and you ended up with a kind of Gilligan-meets-Lost scenario, with clothes to match). Cabled knitwear showed a new precision, but it was the accessories this trio found that added new layers. Espadrilles by a surfing buddy who designs under the label Toms Shoes and jewelry by Subversive had a louche indolence that suggested a summer misspent by the sea.