July 06, 2006
European menswear designers are dreaming American dreams for spring 2007. Antwerp's Véronique Branquinho settled on Miami as the port of call for her tightly edited, 17-look collection. The reference was literal in a pink tank with a flamingos-at-sunset scene, and the shiny black leather blouson had a hint of the highway patrol about it. Overall, though, Branquinho was less interested in evoking a specific locale than a general atmosphere of heat and sensuality. She did this with clothes that were looser, fresher, and more colorful than her previous collections. Witness creamy peach and yellow knitwear, a sky-blue suit, cotton coveralls in aqua, and a Western shirt in eau de nil.
Stir in some lilac and pink, and you were encroaching on Sonny Crockett territory, but Branquinho was making Miami Nice. A cream silk suitsingle button, low closing, with a slight slubhad a confident sexiness that felt new for the designer. Likewise the subtly decorative eveningwear. And a golfing sweater in emerald-green houndstooth added a nice touch of irony.