Antonio Berardi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 7, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Antonio Berardi said he had religion on his mind when he began working on his spring collection. But his is not an ascetic style. Born a Roman Catholic, Berardi loves a flourish. And although these clothes—thank heaven—were less ornately layered than last season's and significantly lighter in their overall effect, there were schoolgirl uniforms, vestments, and silver-plated priest collars aplenty, even a few waisted tunics and armor-like boleros with a touch of Joan of Arc to them. "There's a purity and innocence here," said the designer. "But there's pomp and circumstance, too."Glorified communion dresses—above-the-knee, A-line, and bibbed or yoked—came in organzas, tulles, and chiffons just translucent enough to betray cardinal-red lingerie sets beneath. The lantern sleeves of blackboard-gray shifts and miniature skirt suits, meanwhile, were filigreed with silver like a bishop's robes. Dropping the metaphor, he turned out a spot-on tent dress cut from embroidered metallic lace that stood out from the rest for its simple, welcome wearability. George Harrison's "My Sweet Lord" played as the models came out for the finale processional, but holy wasn't the word for Berardi's show. He takes his faith leavened with a bit of sin—and more than enough ostentation.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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