A.F. Vandevorst
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
For today's show, Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst accessorized their signature mix of sharp tailoring and lingerie accents with nuns' habits, rosaries, and surgical tape placed over some of the models' mouths. If they wanted to make a religious-political point, though, their audience—who¿d been sipping champagne during the long wait—seemed at best oblivious, and at worst uninterested. This was a fashion presentation, after all, not agitprop theater—and with another show to go to and perhaps a party or two, the issue at hand wasn't freedom of speech, but, "Have they got pretty frocks?"The answer, happily, was mostly yes. A trio of silk numbers in Mother Teresa blue—the best of which looked like an elegant yet simple sheath in front, but was bare at the back—stood out among the show's white, nude, and blush offerings. So did a royal-blue halter gown with a deep plunge and a pleated skirt. Hoods—which appeared on everything from a cardigan sweater to a shirtdress—were a recurring and not too overtly religious trope; the same went for narrow shifts layered over pants. A.F. Vandevorst's men's vests looked smart and salable, but if it isn't a sin to put men's cotton briefs over tights and ask a model to walk the perimeter of the Musée Galliera in them, then it should be.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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