Anna Molinari designer Rossella Tarabini worked both sides of the male/female divide for spring, interspersing fitted jackets, button-down shirts, and narrow, cropped pants among her usual supershort party frocks. Even the girliest of girls needs a little edge in her life, Tarabini seemed to realize, and the sharp angles and stark whites, blacks, and silvers were a welcome counterpoint to the baby dolls and trapezes, the ruffled knits and point d'esprit in soft grays and pinks.

The most compelling looks were the ones that balanced masculine and feminine—take, for instance, a blazer worn over a lace tank and a ruffled bubble skirt. But the Lucite-heeled platforms and sheer stockings with back seams that accessorized every exit tended to tart up the proceedings, and despite the fact that Tarabini incorporated many of the current trends—metallic brocades, rosettes, the bedazzled coat—her brief collection came off feeling lightweight.