September 11, 2006 New York
The designer looked for truth in his materials, which for spring included matte jersey, linen, and organza. "The fabrics rule, and I let the cut do the rest," he explained. The result? Neat, fresh looks for day, like sandy-colored jersey suits and dresses (paired with snazzy patent-and-steel shoes from the house's new collection). White-on-white dresses featured intricate embroidery, as did some of the gala evening numbers, including one that was embellished with feathers. The jersey story continued. Stand-outs included columnar raspberry and lavender gowns with open backs that looked modern and that expressed, as the collection did overall, a strong vision of American chic.