Blumarine

MILAN, September 29, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
As much as Milan fashion week could use a few pantsuits, you don't go to the Blumarine show for those—or for any other surprises. Over the course of nearly three decades, designer Anna Molinari has perfected the art and commerce of the party dress and the little bejeweled cardigans that her clients like to wear with them. For spring, she didn't venture far from the familiar. The first look—a black shirtdress with pearls for buttons and a crystal-encrusted collar—set the mood. Elsewhere, there were petals of chiffon, embroidered violets, and wisteria prints. Yes, Molinari touched on the season's trends—brocade is one example —but her dresses nodded less to the sixties than to Lolita, with nipped waists that flared out to the knee. Echoing that silhouette, taffeta jackets with short, puffed sleeves and mini peplums were belted and worn with A-line pleated skirts.

Pink is a color of the season, but it's been a Blumarine favorite for years, and this crowd-pleasing show ended with a parade of old-Hollywood glamour gowns in shades of blush, cotton candy, and dusty rose.

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