Costello Tagliapietra
NEW YORK, September 10, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra are anachronisms— witness the lumberjack shirts, the suspenders, the beards, and, since May, the matching "JCRT" anchor tattoos. But it goes beyond their appearance. The Brooklyn-based duo—CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists for the second year in a row—are among the few contemporary designers who, whither the wind blows, remain true to their vision. Trapeze dresses? You won't find them on this runway. Instead, they reworked their signature slim draped jersey dresses in earthy Aubrey Beardsley tones. And in a subtle nod to Halston's Studio 54 days, added a few sexy one-shoulder looks to the mix of more demure wrap, Empire, and cinched waist styles.New for spring were the embroideries. Gold bugle beads traced the neckline of a tomato red number with geometric precision, and a smattering of pearls decorated the bodice of a white gold frock, as well as a ribbon necklace worn with a purple V-neck dress. They also experimented with luxe wovens like griege and metallic moiré, sewing them into a short-sleeve jacket, narrow pants, or a standup-collar coat gathered at the waist. All three pieces were nice enough additions—timeless and refined—but it's when they work with the fluid jersey that these designers really shine. It may not make for the splashiest runway experience of the week, but it's nice to see a label playing to its strengths.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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