September 09, 2006 New York
New for spring were the embroideries. Gold bugle beads traced the neckline of a tomato red number with geometric precision, and a smattering of pearls decorated the bodice of a white gold frock, as well as a ribbon necklace worn with a purple V-neck dress. They also experimented with luxe wovens like griege and metallic moiré, sewing them into a short-sleeve jacket, narrow pants, or a standup-collar coat gathered at the waist. All three pieces were nice enough additionstimeless and refinedbut it's when they work with the fluid jersey that these designers really shine. It may not make for the splashiest runway experience of the week, but it's nice to see a label playing to its strengths.