September 14, 2006 New York
She started with promising wrap dresses, their plunging necklines a sexy counterpoint to the draped easiness of their silhouettes. It quickly became clear that comfort and ease would be Karan's operating principles. A caravan of smocks and caftans fell away from the body in billows of washed silk and chamois. Some had a youthful lightnessyou'll see a certain sort of downtown girl wearing floaty tops like these with baggy shorts all next summer. But others, in floor-length black, had an almost witchy vibe.
In a season when "pretty" has become a buzzword, these clothes felt out of sync, and after the chic structure and sharp tailoring of her fall collection, it was a shame to see her go all shapeless. Karan knows the true path, of course, but this season she took a wrong step or two.