Donna Karan
NEW YORK, September 15, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
You could see traces of Donna Karan's travels in her spring show, from the vaguely ethnic "cracked earth" prints to the souvenir necklaces to the incense that perfumed the air with a faint woody scent. If New York's girl tribes were the starting point for her spirited DKNY show earlier this week, she had global ones on her mind for her signature collection. In the end, though, she didn't convey the same authority abroad as she did at home.She started with promising wrap dresses, their plunging necklines a sexy counterpoint to the draped easiness of their silhouettes. It quickly became clear that comfort and ease would be Karan's operating principles. A caravan of smocks and caftans fell away from the body in billows of washed silk and chamois. Some had a youthful lightness—you'll see a certain sort of downtown girl wearing floaty tops like these with baggy shorts all next summer. But others, in floor-length black, had an almost witchy vibe.
In a season when "pretty" has become a buzzword, these clothes felt out of sync, and after the chic structure and sharp tailoring of her fall collection, it was a shame to see her go all shapeless. Karan knows the true path, of course, but this season she took a wrong step or two.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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