Dries Van Noten
PARIS, October 4, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Does the late-breaking news about "the new sport" raise anxieties—especially coming so hot on the heels of last season's couture-dressing? Relax, and look at Dries Van Noten. Unlike this season's previous efforts, his collection made the proposition of pulling anoraks, parkas, and go-faster stripes back into a current wardrobe feel like the easiest step—and not one likely to land us back in the domain of velour tracksuits.First, check his high-heeled sneakers—the Van Noten leitmotif for a new coexistence of chic and casual. The styling of the clothes nailed that refreshing outlook by translating the standard shapes of sport, outdoor, and army-surplus pieces into special fabrics, and giving them volumes and silhouettes that are next-door to the things we're used to wearing already. Thus, a hooded anorak in light parachute silk was cinched with a thick leather belt, the way we've recently been putting tops with skirts. His parkas might be actual coats—like the yellow nylon one with balloon sleeves—or they might become loose cotton parka-dresses with drawstring waists, neatly catching the trends for sack dresses and shirtdresses while they're at it.
Throughout the show, there were nice ideas for remixing looks, like adding great-looking army sweaters and khaki jackets to more feminine pieces, or putting a gray marl T-shirt under a black pantsuit. As for the sporty stripes, Van Noten stripped them to a single line of white piping flanking the sides of pants, skirts, and shorts—a clever balance between the formality of tuxedo dressing and the looseness of the locker room. In essence, that's Van Noten all over: the comfortable partnership of the casual and the formal, the fashionable and the normal, that makes his clothes speak to the reality of so many women's lives.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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