Givenchy
PARIS, October 4, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Riccardo Tisci returned today to the venue of his first Givenchy outing of a year ago. That show was roundly trounced by critics, but buyers found things to like in it, especially his beyond-the-ordinary white shirts. Last season's black dresses were also a hit, and increasing sales have given the young Italian confidence. "I'm trying to do my own story," he said backstage.For spring—his all-important third collection—that meant ethnic geometries, which were part of Givenchy's oeuvre, and fetish accents, which are Tisci's own. The elements of tribalism that surfaced in his July couture presentation appeared here as batik-style prints on draped and folded silk jerseys, patent-leather breastplates, and animal-like fringe on a long series of black dresses. The show's circular motif proved both decorative, in the form of cutouts below the neckline, and practical, as in the holes through which the ends of waist-cinching belts were looped. As for the dog collars, striped stockings, and strappy, hobbling footgear that accessorized all this—well, it made for provocative theater.
Was this another step in the right direction? One answer will come when the collection arrives in stores a few months from now. The things you'll likely see there are a double-breasted jacket with passementerie detailing, a white denim trench, and more of those black dresses, each one with a new bodice detail. But there are also several elements that you won't come across, like the dresses with arching cutouts that revealed the upper thigh or—say it isn't so—union suits. Tisci remains on the upward slope of his learning curve, and he still has some climbing to do.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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