Gucci
MILAN, September 27, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Frida Giannini decided to steer Gucci out of the seventies disco for spring, further away from the hot-and-sexy territory so emphatically occupied by Tom Ford. "I've been thinking about the early sixties, and a few things from the archive," she said of a show that began with short black coats and dresses piped in purple, orange, and red and that was grounded with block-heeled flats. It's Gucci's 85th anniversary, and Giannini's thoughts had probably been set in motion by flicking through paparazzi photos of the leggy likes of Ursula Andress and Britt Ekland, shopping at the company's Rome branch. But in the end, what she put on the runway had more to do with her efforts to broaden the brand's accessibility to young women than with reciting the history.The collection looked best when Giannini stuck to graphic shifts. Decorated with hexagons of silver beading on white, they were worn with cute silver space-age flats. A few long, patchwork-print Empire scarf dresses—a revisiting of an idea in her first resort collection—had a similarly unforced appeal. She also showed refabricated updates of the skinny pants, boxy jackets, and low-heeled Beatle boots that were a hit for spring. Ultimately, though, the pressure to show a variety of potential hot sellers made for a lack of coherence. A puzzling passage of folkloric, vaguely Tyrolean printed dresses in the middle seemed to have nothing much to do with the rest, nor did it make any connection to trends emerging elsewhere. Not to say these looks won't be nice for a girly vacation come next summer, but to put forward a stronger point of view, Giannini needs to learn what's for retail racks, and what makes a concise statement in a show.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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