A boardwalk runway and canvas beach chairs in the house's signature orange set the mood for the Hermès show. First out was a series of maillots accented with the label's iconic studded leather belts, bracelets, and chokers, and alternatively covered up by a sharply-cut blazer, a soft, cropped hoodie, or a languid sarong.

What came after was a bit more of a muddle, first because it was seasonally off-the-mark and second because it didn't all convey the elegance long associated with the brand. Wispy chiffons in plaid or a more spring-like sunflower pattern were draped into bow-front blouses and floaty skirts or shirtgowns, over which were layered desirable small leather vests and shrunken jackets. Flora and fauna decorated lace and pleated silk evening dresses, respectively, the former accented with subtle Hermès logos on the straps. Also in the not-always-successful mix were three-piece leather shorts suits, satin safari jackets, suede wraps that crisscrossed in back to tie at the front, and a luxe take on the leisure suit, also in suede.

Last season, Gaultier made a convincing argument for fashion at Hermès with a chic collection that subtly referenced polo. Spring's beach frolic was less persuasive.