When Carmen Hawk and Milla Jovovich began their line, some suspected it was a vanity project, but the new designers have been legitimized by a recent CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination. Accordingly, throngs of editors and well-wishers jammed into the Adrian Ruehl Gallery in the Meatpacking District to see a tableau of models chatting casually in long, retro-styled dresses that were rendered in silk and jersey prints and finished with crochet or lace trim.

Jovovich and Hawk said they were trying to create a "Sunday afternoon feeling" with their collection, and they achieved it with pieces like a caftan banded and belted in bordeaux, as well as a shirred-front and ruffled halter gown, both nicely accessorized with vintage-looking hats. At the same time, the designers took the opportunity to introduce a "specialty jean" featuring a slightly higher waist and fuller legs than usual, with front pockets. But as the parade continued, touching on everything from Victorian white work to thirties glamour to disco dash, the inspirations came a little too thick and fast. The show, which featured a soundtrack of punk covers by Nouvelle Vague, hit some of the right notes, but Jovovich-Hawk haven't yet made the song their own.