September 08, 2006
For his first-ever runway presentation, the Toronto-based, Preen- and Alexander McQueen-trained designer Jeremy Laing distilled ideas he's been working on since his "petit début" for Fall 2005. Back was the neon, the tailoring (boyfriend and Norfolk jackets), and the play with shape. Last season, Laing worked with deflated volumes using mostly menswear fabrics; for spring, he favored lighter materials, like silk, for a softer, more lyrical effecta feeling that was reinforced by a live performance by Swedish folksinger Colin Bergh. The designer's use of layering was mostly successful, if sometimes overwrought, with lingerie-like straps darting in and out of tops and a plethora of crisscross backs. Knickers seemed a hard sell, but the dresses really sang.