Jill Stuart
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2006
By
Jill Stuart's show began with a surprise: Danish male model Mathias Lauridsen. Yes, Stuart has launched a menswear line (named Stuart Curtis because it was created in conjunction with her husband, Ron Curtis). That wasn't the only trick the designer had up her sleeve in this collection. The women's clothes were built around corsetry, and while lingerie is a recurring theme for Stuart, this time around boning and structure replaced satiny, starlet-style pieces.This was a move in the right direction, as it took the designer away from her overfamiliar vintage vibe (even if it's difficult to picture some of these sheer ensembles working outside of the bedroom). She also made good (though rather too much) use of the trapeze shape. Of particular note were a black lace number and a swingy pleated ivory lace look with a V-back and bows at the shoulders.
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