Junya Watanabe
PARIS, October 2, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Striking up images of Beau Brummel and Beethoven, Junya Watanabe effectively cut off the urban uprising he broke out last season in mid-yell. All you needed to know was there in look one: a high-collared frothy ruffled shirt knotted in a cravat; cutaway tailcoat; narrow pants; and pointy, patent lace-ups. The formal, decorative, historicist look was a sharp change of mood, but not a volte-face. Watanabe regularly shifts between romance and punk, and the reason he doesn't look schizoid is that, funnily enough, the same elements always turn up either side of the divide.Thus, Watanabe's signature tailcoats, nip-waist dandy jackets, lean boy-cut pants, and shirts were switched this season into baroque-splendid fabrics instead of ripped-up army fatigues. Or so it might have appeared. On close inspection, the first several looks were cut in denim, followed by narrow, vaguely fifties Teddy Boy drainpipes—a touch of street swagger to undercut the poshness, and a flash of Watanabe's jean genius. After that, he moved the collection on up into baroque printed paisleys, as well as beige chino-gabardines appliquéd with white lace, and tuxedo pants. He worked the thought through into full-length shirtdresses in tucked lawn or lace—and a final skirt that exited in a flourish of cotton shirt ruffles rippling into a train. Masculine but feminine, romantic but modern, smart but wearable—it was all that, but the most difficult contradiction the accomplished Watanabe pulled off was that this collection looked new, yet totally identifiable as his own.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
