Wunderkind
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 1, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
After two years in New York, Wolfgang Joop has brought his Wunderkind collection to Paris. "In America, they were always telling me you have to be a little businesslike, a little sporty, a little realistic. Here, you have to follow your heart," he said. Well, it seems that Joop's heart is of two minds. The first look out—a two-piece, gray checked suit with slouchy pants—suggested he'd go the menswear route. From there, though, he layered on the flourishes, so that by the end it wasn't a surprise to see a long-coat-bikini top-and-cuffed-bloomers combination come in gold-leafed tablecloth lace. Most of the clothes were faded at the shoulders, an ombré patina effect Joop said he achieved by bleaching them in the sun in Italy. Many others were studded with brass grommets. When he put the two effects together, it was an embellishment overload. Better were the show's less tricky pieces: a belted black dress with broderie anglaise at the neckline and a navy silk suit with zips at the ankle that jibed with the sporty vibe starting to materialize on the runways; or washed-leather jackets with a snug, sexy fit. Beforehand, Joop hinted that his Paris debut had given him a case of the nerves. Nothing suggested that more than the show's misguided statement accessories: bonnets with peripheral-vision-obliterating brims. So much for New York's lesson in realism, indeed.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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