Malo

NEW YORK, September 12, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
In July, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi—whose 6267 line won the Franca Sozzani–headed Who Is on Next? young designer award—were handed the reins of Malo¿s ready-to-wear line. And while the duo does favor body-hugging, sometimes retro silhouettes in their own work, for Malo they wanted to play with ideas of modernity. This took two forms in a repetitive collection: colorful, pop-y, occasionally overwhelming prints; and a space-age feeling that nodded to Courrèges. The designers treated cashmere with plastic via coatings, and they embroidered large plastic stones onto everything from a modish sequined tunic to bags. Applying the 3-D lozenges to a pair of micro shorts was not their most practical idea. Among the long parade of trapeze shapes and frequent doses of color, a white cashmere suit and a patent trench really caught the eye. Aquilano and Rimondi are clearly trying to make a mark, but let's hope they don't forget the essentials—like the cozy luxe of cashmere—in the rush to modernize.

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