September 11, 2006
In July, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondiwhose 6267 line won the Franca Sozzani–headed Who Is on Next? young designer awardwere handed the reins of Malo¿s ready-to-wear line. And while the duo does favor body-hugging, sometimes retro silhouettes in their own work, for Malo they wanted to play with ideas of modernity. This took two forms in a repetitive collection: colorful, pop-y, occasionally overwhelming prints; and a space-age feeling that nodded to Courrèges. The designers treated cashmere with plastic via coatings, and they embroidered large plastic stones onto everything from a modish sequined tunic to bags. Applying the 3-D lozenges to a pair of micro shorts was not their most practical idea. Among the long parade of trapeze shapes and frequent doses of color, a white cashmere suit and a patent trench really caught the eye. Aquilano and Rimondi are clearly trying to make a mark, but let's hope they don't forget the essentialslike the cozy luxe of cashmerein the rush to modernize.