Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
September 11, 2006 New York
In July, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondiwhose 6267 line won the Franca Sozzani–headed Who Is on Next? young designer awardwere handed the reins of Malo¿s ready-to-wear line. And while the duo does favor body-hugging, sometimes retro silhouettes in their own work, for Malo they wanted to play with ideas of modernity. This took two forms in a repetitive collection: colorful, pop-y, occasionally overwhelming prints; and a space-age feeling that nodded to Courrèges. The designers treated cashmere with plastic via coatings, and they embroidered large plastic stones onto everything from a modish sequined tunic to bags. Applying the 3-D lozenges to a pair of micro shorts was not their most practical idea. Among the long parade of trapeze shapes and frequent doses of color, a white cashmere suit and a patent trench really caught the eye. Aquilano and Rimondi are clearly trying to make a mark, but let's hope they don't forget the essentialslike the cozy luxe of cashmerein the rush to modernize.