A short patchwork dress of hippie prints with glam paillettes at the shoulders appeared halfway through the Marc by Marc Jacobs show, and it was the perfect symbol for this collection, i.e. it had a little bit of this, a little bit of that. Jacobs worked all the season's angles: a few sixties shifts, all-American chinos in muddy hues, short A-line skirts. He even tossed in a leopard-print look that could've walked off last season's Marc Jacobs runway. Then there were the items that have made this line such a huge success, from innovative denim to great outerwear.

He also focused on the twenties silhouette that featured in his resort collection. Drop-waist dresses in everything from printed silk to striped knits were one motif that emerged from the layers of textures, patterns, and colors. A collection like this doesn't need a strong message, it needs great items, and there were plenty here. Still, it left you wishing for a little of the focus and intensity he brings to his main line.