Martin Grant's clothes have always been about the dream of French chic. The trench. The little black dress. The jumpsuit? Like others this season, the Australian-born designer has injected a sportif element into his collection. It appeared in silhouettes (a snap-front jacket with hood), materials (a tent gown in sweatshirt-gray jersey), and details (contrast piping on a set of 1920s tennis dresses).

Where were the coats and suits that have made Grant's Marais studio a must-shop for devotees including Lee Radziwill, who looked the picture of elegance in his front row? A flawless raincoat in the palest gray near the beginning boded well. Unfortunately, though, this was followed by dresses that were surprisingly offhand (read: sloppy) for such a meticulous tailleur, the worst offender being a lime-green cowlneck jersey number. A plainer T-shirt dress cut from the same fabric but in heather-gray worked better.

For all that, Grant turned out some fine evening dresses, especially the final look, a red gown with a fishtail train and a bodice folded, pleated, and pressed with the assiduous attention to every detail for which the designer is known.