September 10, 2006 New York
Backstage, he was mum on literal inspirations, speaking instead of "light, kindness, peace, and generosity." The light part made a sort of sense. Jacobs' palette consisted of white, cream, black for contrast, and ombréd grays, with flashes of brilliant holographic sequins. And from a shirred tulle bomber jacket with a furlike appearance to a drop-waist tiered lace dress that evoked Poiret, there was a certain romance to the collection. Layered jersey tees, billowing brushstroke-stripe silk dresses, and deconstructed à la japonaise cashmeres had an appealing softness.
But was there substance beneath the whimsy? Many of these clothesthe Arabian Nights harem pants, for example, or the tulip pants that he showed unbuttoned up the sidewill be a hard sell. On the other hand, the trio of understated-by-comparison T-shirt dresses and the bagsmetallic leathers and exotic skins studded with crystals as big as the bulbs on an old Times Square marqueeshould keep the faithful happy. Those items are the grounding forces that allow Jacobs to indulge his flights of fancy.