Maison Martin Margiela
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 1, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Martin Margiela's best-kept secret—apart from his Mr. Invisible image—is that he is one of the finest tailors and cutters working today. Reading between the lines, that part of his message was meant to be played up a bit more for spring. Caped silhouettes, sharp jackets, high-waisted pants, sexily original jersey dresses—all these things are regularly available in stores, but come show time, it's usually the high-concept experimentalism (like last season's clothes made out of furnishings) that gets the airplay. This time, he toned it down—apart, that is, from the distraction of linebacker padded shoulders, nude body stockings, and that top-ten most woman-annoying garment, the one-legged trouser-skirt.It's fair to say, too, that there was an Americana stars-and-stripes theme worked into the show, though nothing that amounted to a dominating intellectual thrust. Instead, in the course of an unusually straight-up runway presentation, aficionados could pick off the wearables in plain view. They were sensuous cape T-shirts over tailored pants; jersey dresses, cleverly engineered from concentrically striped target-circles to flow and drape every which way; and precision-cut variations on men's-for-women tailoring. Plastic and Lucite wedges, a necklace strung together from aviator sunglass lenses, and a huge black shiny star cummerbund kept the nutty-cool edge, but mainly this show seemed to be focused on lifting Margiela out of the marginal.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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