Moschino
MILAN, September 26, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
The Moschino show had all the trappings of late-fifties womanhood: the gloves, the bouffant hairdos, the crinolines under the skirts. And suspended at the back of the runway were giant spools of thread, skeins of yarn, and buttons aplenty. But the gals Rosella Jardini designs for aren't the type to sit alone at home on a Saturday night and darn socks. Whether on a hot date or solo, they're ready for the dance floor, here in a strapless black dress that blossomed out below the waist, or a shorter shift sprayed with crystals to catch the light. Tailored pieces, like trenches and curving boleros—along with leggings, some in gold Lurex—gave evening numbers a cool, rockabilly edge.If these clothes sometimes lack the finesse that you expect from a designer-priced collection, Jardini made up for it with plenty of the spirit the label's known for. She overstitched a white, swingy jacket with black embroidery; laced a rope belt through the oversize grommets of a sailor suit; and, less compellingly, put crocheted sleeves on a coat. She still loves a visual trick, too: A couple of short-sleeve blouses came with long sleeves tied at the chest, mimicking the arms of a sweater tossed smartly over the shoulders. There were floral prints, graphic bull's-eye dots, and plenty of the brand's signature red, including one special bag made from molded plastic in the shape of a heart that neatly summed up the collection's tough yet sweet, and hard-to-dislike, message.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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