September 19, 2006 London
He worked that out partly with math, piecing hexagonal patchworks into subtly faceted, slightly standaway surfaces on his signature bra-top dresses. From there, he experimented with light layers of print floating over a contrasting underdress, and, less successfully, a section of power-mesh draping. One of Schwab's underlying interests, as befits the son of a bra-factory engineer, is the superstructure of lingerie, and it reappeared in the boned bustle detail protruding from a bandanna-print gown. In a move toward unfussy romanticism and lightness, he also showed a couple of faded rose-print dresses, neat to the waist, but with sculptural, airy volume in back.
Many of these were quietly outstanding pieces extraordinary to see coming from the hand of someone so young. It was still his first solo show, though, and in some ways, his anxiety to prove his worthiness led him to overextend himself. He needn't have made quite so many dresses; after the first few, the audience was sold, but before long, ready to leave. The show, through no fault of Schwab's, ran an unacceptable two hours late because of delays caused by other designers.