Narciso Rodriguez will always be a minimalist at heart. Even when he does embellishments, he can't help but do them in a streamlined way. Still, there was as much adornment as you're likely to see on a Rodriguez runway here. A pin that clasped a draped white dress at the hips resembled a polished stone. A short, gray cocktail dress was embroidered with red and black paillettes that were arrayed like the circuits of a microchip. And the long, flowing gowns that closed the show were topped with armorlike plastic breastplates in contrasting colors.

Continuing where he left off last season, Rodriguez worked both sides of the structure/flow divide. He opened the show with a pair of sharply tailored boleros and a patent raincoat—all with splices below the shoulders. His jackets, as complexly seamed as ever, had kicky little peplums, and pants were cut lean, mean, and a few inches above the ankle. For evening, things were mostly softer. Those aforementioned breastplates also came in delicate embroideries: black on teal and white on white. They can't protect you, but they will help you stand out at night.