Give the ladies what they want—that's always been Oscar de la Renta's mantra, and for spring he didn't waver. Were there embroideries? You bet. And lace, crochet, and florals, too. The show opened with a red-poppy sundress with pockets, followed by another in a rich Himalayan blue. This collection wasn't wallflower material; bold, oversize prints shared the runway with saturated colors like azure, cherry, and marigold.

The designer kept things youthful with short silhouettes, though none were quite as brief as the crochet tunic Tanya Dziahileva wore to deliver red roses to front-row guest of honor Roger Federer. Perhaps Oscar whipped up the navy polo and white mini—one of the collection's only sporty moments—in honor of the U.S. Open champ. Other looks were less surprising. A year ago, de la Renta ushered in the return of the bubble—on this side of the Atlantic, at least—and he showed plenty of them today, in silk gazar for day and taffeta for night. But by now, that silhouette is starting to feel a little played out. What looked fresh for evening were his navy dresses. Among those, one in particular stood out: In front, it was a simple crepe column; in back, crystal buttons punctuated a gorgeous fall of fabric. Count on Oscar to bring the drama.