Peter Jensen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2006
By Sarah Mower
London shows are usually about a marriage between fashion and art on some level—but not usually as literally as Peter Jensen's spring collection was. His show was not just dedicated to Tina Barney, but from backdrop to voice-over, it was a careful—and rather touching—attempt to reproduce scenes from the art photographer's Rhode Island album, Theater of Manners. In other words, Jensen gave us an ode to American sportswear and conservative special-occasion wear of the kind Barney captured—nostalgically yet tensely—being worn by her family in the late eighties and early nineties. "Tina was involved all the way along," the designer said. "We played her favorite tunes from Burt Bacharach and an interview I recorded with her."So, how did the clothes turn out? There were linen trenches, neat Prince of Wales pencil skirts, shorts, and miniskirts in seersucker; a red-and-white striped skirt was lifted straight from a photo of Barney's daughter in a beach towel. From there in, Jensen's transpositions were just a little weirder—shirtdresses acquired an eighties cocktail dress side-ruche, knotted cardigan sleeves were fused into shoulders and around hips. Any preppy American would identify this as not quite the real thing straight off, but that's the point about Jensen. For him, it was just another path into doing a quietly ironic take on "normal" clothes, which is exactly what his followers appreciate.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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