Pollini
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 26, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
"It's short and it's lean," explained Rifat Ozbek backstage at his Pollini show. But to say that is to rather simplify things. This is a designer who's never dreamed up an exotic inspiration he didn't like, and his spring collection was full of them, distractingly so at times. The South Seas gave him tribal tattoo prints for strapless dresses, as well as the feathers that accented necklines; Japan, the origami-like discs that edged the hem of a narrow sheath; and Hawaii, the silver-and-gold brocade that he spliced into narrow strips and tiered to the ground. Did Ozbek take a whirlwind trip recently? "No," he said. "It's all just in my head."All this was accessorized with Philip Treacy's plumed crowns, as well as Bakelite neckpieces and cuffs—more often than not, the effect was overwhelming . Ethnic, as a category, just doesn't have the grip on the fashion community that it did not so long ago. In a season of sixties shifts, though, Ozbek cut one of the best. It came with long sleeves and a stand-away collar that will accentuate delicate collarbones and a slender neck. And no modern-day Gidget will be able to resist an abstract orchid-print sleeveless shift with filigrees of cream embroidery.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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