Proenza Schouler
NEW YORK, September 11, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Among other things, the eighties gave fashion Hervé Léger and OP surfwear. Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, children of that decade, brought the two together on their spring runway—it's not as unlikely a pairing as it sounds. "It's about elevating sporty," the duo said of the new collection. That meant reworking windbreakers as button-downs under almost-rustic hemp blazers; using the cut and seaming of an old-school surfer's wetsuit for sleek, rubberized linen dresses and knit leggings; and transforming a boxy tee into an evening piece with colorful, graphic sequins. The last was tucked into a teal silk-moiré skirt, a little A-line number that was cut above the knee.Those proportions looked fresh and right. But proportions become a trickier proposition when you get to bandage dressing. Only the likes of front-row celeb Victoria Beckham could pull off the unforgiving pink-and-orange tube skirt. Still, the rest of Proenza's fans will probably be happy with the bra tops made from the stretchy stuff, and they'll love the racer-back tanks in swatches of Ellsworth Kelly stripes. This collection may not have been as tight as last season's, or as rich, but there was more than enough evidence that these designers are still on their game.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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