Peter Som
NEW YORK, September 13, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
Peter Som did his homework, visiting the Louvre and studying eighteenth-century garments at the Costume Institute, before designing for spring. Thankfully, though, he didn't take his sources too literally. Instead, he presented a collection that, while it took few risks, was full of pretty but not overdone confections that should be right up his well-heeled customer's avenue. "I was thinking about pared-down luxury—not minimalism," the designer said. "My aim was to spin texture and tone with a light touch."There was lightness in the palette, which ranged from dove gray to buttermilk and was punctuated with patent shoes in "crazy makeup" colors. Generally, Som went in for matte effects rather than shine, and fabrics like Jacquards and burlap parchments added a tactile quality. Watteau backs offered a variation on the trapeze, moving volume to the rear, a conceit that was especially effective in the finale trio of washed organdy gowns. Som's collection stressed evening over daywear—not a lot of this would look right in an office—but then he knows his fans aren't exactly 9 to 5 types.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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