Emilio Pucci

MILAN, September 28, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Rachel Zoe was the first in line to congratulate Matthew Williamson after his Pucci show. That sighting, more than anything, clinched the point of the collection that had just left the runway: It's for the kind of young and ravey party girls who look to Zoe for tips, ideal for being papped in from beach to nightclub, Ibiza to Bali, Saint-Tropez to South Beach.

As you'd expect from a British designer who's made it his business to hang with It girls, Williamson treated Pucci to a dose of what's going on in the London club scene: i.e., allover print leggings and tops (like Basso & Brooke) along with what his notes called "the body-conscious silhouette of the late eighties and early nineties" (translation: slinky jersey and chain mail). He took Pucci archive prints and punched them up into the brightest turquoise, aqua, peach, purple, orange, and electric blue, styling them with mirrored cutout wedges, sixties enamel disc pendants and giant cuffs. The effect? Beyond garish in parts, but those skimpy terry bikinis will no doubt get all the long-lens exposure for which minor celebs jostle.

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