Rodarte
NEW YORK, September 12, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
At a recent Robert Rauschenberg exhibition, Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy had the experience of "being hit over the head with visual impact," and they set out to do the same with their spring collection. The sisters, CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists, are passionate—even obsessive—about the construction of their clothes, and it showed in details large and small, such as bow collars, handmade flowers, and feather appliqués. Almost everything in this collection was exaggerated in terms of volume and finish. Keen students of the eighteenth-century painter Thomas Gainsborough, the Mulleavys sent out pieces that recalled sartorial conceits of yore, like panniers and infanta-style skirts, and they attached an obi-like appendage to the back of an appliquéd gown.The result of all this was a collection that might not have looked out of place in a classic Irving Penn spread, but what of its position in the modern world? Many in the audience—including Karen Elson and Sarah Sophie Flicker—were wearing dresses from Rodarte's previous spring collection, and they couldn't have looked chicer. This time around, there were fewer viable real-life options. (One exception was a lean, mean pant in black or deep pink, paired with a white blouse). Still, the balance between art and wearability is something these talented designers should have plenty of time to perfect in the future.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicolas Andreas Taralis Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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