September 30, 2006 Paris
The lightness, together with rock-couturish flourishes like the spiky black ribbon-ties jutting from shoulder fastenings, turned this into a sit-up-and-take-notice sequel to Owens' more predictable journeys around his personal netherworld. Funnel hoods, pulled all the way over to veil faces, gave a semi-scary jolt, but that was only a problem until they were pushed backthen they were just a detail in an elegant, flyaway evening coat. Still, like other designers this season, Owens didn't have the bottom half of his collection resolved. His dresses were in the bias-cut groove he's worked foreverthe aesthetic he calls "Scotch-taped Vionnet"but, annoyingly, this time they were all sheer. A quick Google search of Frazetta (there's a museum in Pennsylvania) shows why: All of those lusty maidens were nude. Panties don't really solve that problem, so let's hope Owens has a few boring old slips in reserve to help out.