September 08, 2006
It's nice to see Ruffian's young designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais making clothes for women their own age. Without losing too much of their signature vocabularythe full pants and the dramatic sleeves, the pintucking and the accordion pleatsthey injected a welcome dose of hip into their spring proceedings. A pair of streamlined fencing trenches in gray and mustard that doubled as A-line shifts were almost minimal, and criss-cross minidresses, shown in white denim and black bouclé, displayed a similar graphic simplicity. But the duo didn't abandon frills entirely. The stiff, waxed cotton ruffles that decorated the neckline and shoulders of wrap dresses grazed the models' earlobes (the silhouette worked better in soft organdy), and art deco beading modeled on Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater blueprints embellished an indigo georgette shiftjust the thing for a modern girl.