The fashion world of late has been focusing lots of energy on emerging markets like China and India. Although many major Western labels rely on the latter as a source of handiwork, there haven't really been any breakthrough designers of Indian descent. Calcutta-based Sabyasachi (rhymes with Versace) Mukherjee, whose collection debuted today in New York, is someone with a shot at changing that. Having sold successfully in London at Browns for several seasons, he was recently picked up by Tracey Ross in Los Angeles.

For spring, Mukherjee showed a collection that was highly reminiscent of the one he showed for fall in Mumbai. His selection of silhouettes was limited, but his bubbles and trapezes felt right for the season, as did plaid and embroidery. Traditional Indian elements like patchwork and beading were applied with a light touch, and the palette—deep-hued, not bright—was inspired by a collection of painted teapots the designer spied at a friend's house—a touch that added to this promising collection's quirky appeal.