September 25, 2006
After winning Vogue Italia's young-designer competition last yearan initiative to seed the next generation of Dolce & Gabbanas and Alessandro Dell'AcquasRoberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano of 6267 took to the runway for their third show. Still, even with such prime exposure, it takes time for the identity of a new line to properly coalesce. What 6267 presented this season was a slightly hard-edged take on the ubiquitous dress-over-trousers look. Their spin was to add a layering of twenties flapper influences, putting bugle-beaded, dippy-hemmed tunics under jackets and over skinny, ankle-cropped pants. The designers followed that conceit into slouchy, hip-slung, satin dressessome were a tad too Milano-disco, but a couple worked fine. It was the tailoring, though, that in the end looked most promising. Cutting a mean jacket is a skill that few young designers have down, and these two might be smart to press that advantage further.