┐I did soft,┐ said Sophia Kokosalaki. ┐I was looking at Vogue photographs by Javier Vallhonrat and Paolo Roversi from the eighties. I liked their saturated color and romanticism. Everyone thinks the eighties were so virulent, but there was another, beautiful side people are overlooking.┐ First, though, this young, independent Greek designer had to fight not to get overlooked herself. Sandwiched between Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino, she helplessly waited an hour for 12 models to show, a delay that sorely tested her audience's patience.

When it finally started, the collection was a more refined rendition of Kokosalaki┐s signature combination of intensely worked draped dresses and modern tailoring. The promised softness was in the pliant, wavily worked Grecian pleating in the high-waisted bodices (she┐s wisely thrown out the padded understructures). These bloomed into short organza skirts. The tailored pieces—belted safari jackets with balloon sleeves and rolled-cuff shorts—also took on a slouchier, sportier ease. Shots of neon green put a London-club spike in the palette of muted ecrus, metallics, oranges, and browns. Styling it all with flat cross-laced sandals and gladiator boots, she brought together a personal look that deserves a better airing than in the difficult crevice the schedule forced on her.