October 03, 2006 Paris
When it finally started, the collection was a more refined rendition of Kokosalaki┐s signature combination of intensely worked draped dresses and modern tailoring. The promised softness was in the pliant, wavily worked Grecian pleating in the high-waisted bodices (she┐s wisely thrown out the padded understructures). These bloomed into short organza skirts. The tailored piecesbelted safari jackets with balloon sleeves and rolled-cuff shortsalso took on a slouchier, sportier ease. Shots of neon green put a London-club spike in the palette of muted ecrus, metallics, oranges, and browns. Styling it all with flat cross-laced sandals and gladiator boots, she brought together a personal look that deserves a better airing than in the difficult crevice the schedule forced on her.