Tao
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 3, 2006
By Sarah Mower
In the space of three seasons, Tao Kurihara's minute, off-schedule shows have come to generate the kind of panic-to-be-there that has journalists calling and texting and dashing through traffic to make it. It's such a must-see that, by the time her all-white "shirts and weddings" collection began to pad quietly out in the Comme des Garçons showroom, rain-bedraggled faces were pressed up against the windows and doors outside.What was the focus of all this fuss? Another of Tao's small and prettily formed concept collections in which two ideas glide together—a kind of girly haiku in dress form. This time, it was centered on ruffle-front white shirts, kilted skirts with bustled flounces of dotted net, and ballet slippers, worn by girls with circlets of white paper flowers in their hair. As the bridesmaids passed to and fro, the scrolled cascades of their shirt fronts and tiered skirts began to take on the details of wedding-cake decorations. Rows of bows were planted on skirts; tiny frills resembling piped icing circled the legs of trousers. By the end, the dresses morphed into pieces of crinolined confectionery, scissored out of white paper. That inched Tao a step or two toward fantasy, but not so much that it distracted from the salable charm of her way with a fragile Victorian puff-sleeved blouse or a perfect little silk-knit polo jersey.
As the audience peeled off into the street, the debrief chatter circled around the fact that Junya Watanabe, also of the house of Comme, had concentrated much of his efforts on white shirts this season—as have many others in the fashion world at large. That slightly diluted the aura of from-nowhere ingenuity that surrounds Tao's work, but no matter. Her only worry ought to be finding a bigger space to contain her fans next season.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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